How do I present a print for competition?
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How do I present a print for competition?
Vaguely thinking of entering the Bamber Trophy. What do I need to present the print? Does it need a frame and if so is there some kind of special one I need? What size does it need to be? Etc...
Re: How do I present a print for competition?
Hi Andy, it's an open mono print competition, so prepare for it as you would any prints that you would submit in the normal print print competitions
MONOCHROME PRINT COMPETITION for the BAMBER TROPHY (for new work)
One set of three monochrome prints only per entrant.
The prints must not have been used in any internal Club competition or Exhibition
previously. The Trophy will be awarded to the entrant with the highest aggregate mark. In
the event of a tie, the judge will select the winner by individually reassessing the tying
entrants’ sets of three prints
MONOCHROME PRINT COMPETITION for the BAMBER TROPHY (for new work)
One set of three monochrome prints only per entrant.
The prints must not have been used in any internal Club competition or Exhibition
previously. The Trophy will be awarded to the entrant with the highest aggregate mark. In
the event of a tie, the judge will select the winner by individually reassessing the tying
entrants’ sets of three prints
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- Posts: 183
- Joined: Fri 05 Jul 2019, 18:47
Re: How do I present a print for competition?
Thanks, Frank. But I've never entered a print competition before. What size should they be? What frames do I use (if you have to use a frame) and where do I get them?
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Re: How do I present a print for competition?
Hi Andy
This is from the club's competition rules:
"Prints must be mounted on card and unframed. (Prints intended for consideration for external competitions e.g. SLF and SPA - must be mounted on card measuring 40cms x 50cms)."
Prints can simply be glued onto the mount or placed in a window mount. The best option for the former is to use a spray adhesive applied to the back of the print taking care not to leave any excess glue on the mount. If that happens, the mount could stick to other prints which would be the cause of damage and unhappiness on the part of others. I have never tried it myself, but logic suggests that correctly positioning the print on the mount has to be achieved at the first attempt.
Window mounts look better and it is possible to buy pre-cut board with an aperture already made, but that does imply the print has to be a specific size and aspect ratio. The print is attached to the back of the mount using masking tape. It is advisable to protect the rear of the print by adding a backing board, which can be specially made for the purpose. It is not necessary, though. For years I used old cereal packets, but I doubt whether that is a recommended archival strategy. With a backing board, it is only necessary to attach the top of the print to the mount, which allows the print to move depending on climatic conditions. Think expansion and contraction as temperature changes. Custom windows can be made and a number of people use equipment made by Logan for the purpose. I use a more expensive one made by Longridge but you only have to buy once.
Mount colour can also be important. In theory, judges should not be assessing the mount but, as with everything, presentation is important and can affect the outcome. While judges probably will not comment if the mount colour is appropriate to the image, they almost certainly will if it isn't. For monochrome, I would stick to a slightly off white, although grey or black can work in the right circumstances. A white with a slightly warm tone such as Antique White is usually better for colour prints. Any other colours such as blue or green really, really, really (have I emphasised that enough?) have to complement the print if they are not to draw adverse attention. Definitely to be used with extreme care and caution.
Supplies can be bought at various places. I have previously used Paper Spectrum which supplies pre-cut mounts, with and without windows, and can recommend them. The link below takes you to the section of their website which lists the materials you will need. It is also possible to purchase A1 or A0 board from art shops and cut it down to size, which the Logan and Longridge tools can do. There is also a lot more information on this forum if you look for it. The topic has come up before!
https://www.paperspectrum.co.uk/mountin ... s-20-c.asp
I suggest that you do some initial investigation and then come back to this thread if you have specific questions. My overview will get you started for now.
This is from the club's competition rules:
"Prints must be mounted on card and unframed. (Prints intended for consideration for external competitions e.g. SLF and SPA - must be mounted on card measuring 40cms x 50cms)."
Prints can simply be glued onto the mount or placed in a window mount. The best option for the former is to use a spray adhesive applied to the back of the print taking care not to leave any excess glue on the mount. If that happens, the mount could stick to other prints which would be the cause of damage and unhappiness on the part of others. I have never tried it myself, but logic suggests that correctly positioning the print on the mount has to be achieved at the first attempt.
Window mounts look better and it is possible to buy pre-cut board with an aperture already made, but that does imply the print has to be a specific size and aspect ratio. The print is attached to the back of the mount using masking tape. It is advisable to protect the rear of the print by adding a backing board, which can be specially made for the purpose. It is not necessary, though. For years I used old cereal packets, but I doubt whether that is a recommended archival strategy. With a backing board, it is only necessary to attach the top of the print to the mount, which allows the print to move depending on climatic conditions. Think expansion and contraction as temperature changes. Custom windows can be made and a number of people use equipment made by Logan for the purpose. I use a more expensive one made by Longridge but you only have to buy once.
Mount colour can also be important. In theory, judges should not be assessing the mount but, as with everything, presentation is important and can affect the outcome. While judges probably will not comment if the mount colour is appropriate to the image, they almost certainly will if it isn't. For monochrome, I would stick to a slightly off white, although grey or black can work in the right circumstances. A white with a slightly warm tone such as Antique White is usually better for colour prints. Any other colours such as blue or green really, really, really (have I emphasised that enough?) have to complement the print if they are not to draw adverse attention. Definitely to be used with extreme care and caution.
Supplies can be bought at various places. I have previously used Paper Spectrum which supplies pre-cut mounts, with and without windows, and can recommend them. The link below takes you to the section of their website which lists the materials you will need. It is also possible to purchase A1 or A0 board from art shops and cut it down to size, which the Logan and Longridge tools can do. There is also a lot more information on this forum if you look for it. The topic has come up before!
https://www.paperspectrum.co.uk/mountin ... s-20-c.asp
I suggest that you do some initial investigation and then come back to this thread if you have specific questions. My overview will get you started for now.
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